Thursday, March 10, 2011

Return

I arrived back in Christchurch on Monday night with Chris and Jess in tow and put them on a plane for the US on Tuesday morning. We had a good 4.2 aftershock Monday night. Thankfully Roberto's wife arrived Wednesday and on Friday, Deb, Roberto and I headed to Akaroa and then to Lyttelton to check out the port city and see if the "Loons" bar survived. The old buildings lost all their facades and it is true that historic buildings in Lyttelton are destroyed. I'll post pictures if we ever return to full bandwidth. The port was cranking! Very little damage to the modern facilities - container ships were being loaded. The tunnel is open.

The situation at Canterbury and in Christchurch has deteriorated. Christchurch City Centre remains cordoned off and will not be accessible for months. This city is fighting for it's existence. The university downgraded the inspections on most of the buildings and the campus re-start will be significantly delayed over the previous estimates. For example, the Civil Eng building lost some ceiling tiles and the administration wants to make sure that no further tiles will come down in any aftershocks. They are inspecting everything in a detailed manner. The Chancellor gave the go ahead to use any resources necessary to get programs going again - as long as it is not on the UC campus. It may be weeks or months before we are back there again.

Milo returned Saturday and Mandy came back Saturday night. On Sunday we had a delightful meeting with Shayne and his family and over the weekend hatched plans to start the Mechanical Engineering program at a sports centre in Mandeville! This facility is about a half hour north of ChCh and will require tents and buses and all manner of ad hoc arrangements to get on-line. The department faculty and staff have kicked in and we will have internet and classes are scheduled on that site starting March 14. Never underestimate the resourcefulness of Kiwi's and Engineers!
This is the new campus fo Mechanical Engineering
first staff meeting at the "new campus" to schedule classes and assign duties to get if "up and running."

Monday, February 28, 2011

Recharge

Destination, Timaru, a major port city 100 miles down the coast from Christchurch. We were shopping for an old beater to drive for our stay and found a candidate on “Trade Me.” A European couple needed to off their ’94 Nissan before continuing world travels in the US. Mandy had been chatting them up on the phone and the plan was to meet in Christchurch Tuesday evening (22Feb11) to look at the car. That did not happen. Jess called us a few days later to say they were not coming to Christchurch, period. If I wanted to look at the car I would have to come to Timaru. Why not, bus service in the city had stopped and transportation is needed in the mountains. Chris and Jess picked me up at the bus station, we had dinner, negotiated the deal, and they dropped me off at a backpacker’s hotel then returned to their tent. The hotel was rough. Timaru is now Christchurch’s port (Lyttelton being mostly destroyed and the tunnel closed). The truck traffic was significant through the night.
It was raining the next morning when we went to the post office to transfer registration of the car. I was not willing to postpone the deal – I had to go to the mountains. “So,” I asked, “what are your plans?” They were staying in the tent till the 1AM airport bus on Monday. “Well, the weather looks fine for a few day, wanna go to the mountains? I need a driver.” The skeptical Europeans looked at the hippy professor from Tennessee, at each other, at the weather, and said “sure!” With Chris at the wheel we blasted northwest to Lake Tekapo. I am grateful to my traveling companions. As you all know the “hofs” are a wild ride – it takes special people to keep up. I needed someone to talk too, to bounce off the trauma of the past week.
This is Jess and Chris at the marrin’ tree, Lake Alexandrina. Hope it’s not bad luck. They also have a blog. We found this spot by chatting up the locals (naturally). The mission was fishing, the lake a prime spot. We were there Sunday, a little late to be first to fish. Met a nice kid from Christchurch who advised that you need to fish from a willow tree!
We drove up Mt. John where the University has an observatory. The Tekapo region is an alpine desert and east of the southern alps so it affords the best views of the night sky. We met an Austrian couple up there that had just checked into the Backpackers last Tuesday, but couldn't take their room before 2PM. They were outside with their belongings when the quake started. Part of the ceiling collapsed and a woman trapped. Within minutes recovery people were there to dig her out – hurt but alive. When I talked to the Austrian, there was a tremor in her voice – only a magnitude 2. If you aren’t listening for the fear, you miss it. This is the most pernicious effect – the insistence of being o.k. when you are certainly not.
The weather was fine. We enjoyed fabulous views of Mt. Cook from the salmon farm below Tekapo.

I took the sunset stargazing tour at the observatory Sunday night. After that I couldn’t sleep. I am not able to reflect on the situation; it is a strange not to be able to sort through your feelings. I want to find peace in the mountains, to loose myself in stalking the trout and salmon. Monday sunrise was spectacular. With a “long black” in hand I went to a tree an Lake Alexandrina and sat with my fly rod. I was happy the rainbows that cruised the shore under me were not interested in my fly. I quit fishing. The mountains are a comfort but no escape. I need to return to Canterbury.
Sunrise over Lake Tekapo Monday morning.

Monday afternoon we drove back to town. Things seem normal coming in from the southwest. Roberto was home and gave us an update. One third of the buildings downtown are “red tagged.” The University is in good shape (I learned Rutherford Hall was red tagged from a security guard). For Christchurch to survive it will need to move – that is one of the discussions. Despite the calm words of the UC administration, we fear for the future of the University. International (paying) students have left. UC’s base in formula funded. As we chatted a 3.9 rumbled through. Roberto jumped and started for the door. He is another in denial of the trauma. This morning Chris, Jess and I awoke to a 3.6, left for the airport with a 3.7, and as I write got rumbled with a 4.3.

I am much better. I truly appreciate the outpouring of love from friends. I assure you I am changed and will be fine. The incredible beauty of this land does bring peace. Today at 12:51 there will be two minutes of silence (5:51PM CT). I am leaving now to go to the UC field.

It is hard to write these words. Please do not let me bring you down. The underlying message is hope, is resilience and the common bond of shared experience. My spirit is recharged from the mountains and I have the strength to support my fellow Cantabrians.

Friday, February 25, 2011

State of Emergency

Tuesday night Roberto, Peta, Gord, Mandy and I assembled in our flat because it has two double doors to the patio.  We listened to Roberto’s explanations of the engineering of structures and how design limited damage to the newer buildings in town and the Canterbury Campus in general.  As pictures came in on the TV there were plenty of examples for the tutoring session.  We managed to get a G3 connection and downloaded the earthquake data available from USGS and Geonet.  http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/eqinthenews/2011/usb0001igm/#details
The aftershocks kept coming.  Roberto was in Conception after the 8+ quake and had experienced two 7+ aftershocks.  Rumbles that night produced races through the door into the rain.  Mandy tended to sense them coming first, but Roberto was quicker and usually first out.  Peta developed a strategy of sitting between Roberto and the door.
With stiff drinks in hand we examined the data and speculated on the damage.  The curious thing about this disaster was our lack of knowledge of what was going on around us and a kind of fatalistic unbelief.  The tele had few facts but many images of destruction.  No one could sleep.  Roberto put a bed by the door.  I saw Peta across the patio a couple of times that night.  The rumbles continued, many 4’s all night long.
Milo showed up around 11AM Wednesday  to check on us.  He needed to go to the house in Red Cliffs to check on his tenants and Jackie, the boys  “Nanny.”  Red Cliffs is the basaltic hill with the crushed yellow building and the buried RSA (VFW equivalent) on the CNN coverage.  It was a fight to get there. Lucky we filled up the car Monday.  With map in hand we dogged traffic and liquefied streets, pothole and fissures to get round Red Cliffs to Sumner.  There were lines of people waiting for water.  Huge sections of the rock had given way. The fissures are perpendicular to the ground and large sections just sheared away.  There were pine trees stuck to the side of the hill, roots exposed.  Turning up Milo’s street all seemed normal!  He is renting to some Residents at the hospital, one was home for a two hour nap after an all nighter at the hospital. His rental suffered no damage. Reminded me of a tornado that wrecks a house and skips a house - Poo-tee-weet?
Behind the house, volunteers were mustering in a field.  They check every house and help those in need. The kindness, concern and care of Cantabrians reminds me of Nashvillians after the flood – except – these people are organized!  They are on the ground and in the streets immediately.  They know where to go and what to do. On campus, after the quake someone cleared every floor immediately.  At first I thought it was random.  I learned later these functions are assigned. As we exited the buildings, proctors in lime vests were stationed at the doors preventing re-entry. 
We found Jackie in her car on the street napping and charging her cell phone.  The interior of her house was a shambles.  We shoveled debris into bins, cleaned as much glass off the floor and carpet as possible without a vacuum and got the place in manageable condition.  Another hour on and off the road, through mud puddles and water holes and we were back at Milo’s home in Avonside.  The river was near the banks. River road was destroyed.  The shallow quake liquefied the road bed and Raleigh instabilities buckled the road in a series of ribbons.  The house, an old “villa” on the river survived well.  Old wood structures fared well. The foundations were a different story. Many on the street were split apart and fissures running through yards and driveways were unimpeded by concrete foundations.  Engineers were walking the road marking uninhabitable houses.  One man came out of his house after they were gone and said, “I wish they wouldn’t do that. It attracts looters!”
Gordon and Peta headed to Hammer Springs to escape the aftershocks.  Tuesday we had two 5+’s, Wednesday was down to 4’s on average.   Milo and family loaded up to come to the Academy lodge where there was power and water.  Mandy whipped up plates of pasta to feed all the boys.  Dinner discussion was about using shape memory alloys to reinforce building structures. We did not sleep that night either.  We only had 3’s and two 4’s, not enough to dash for the door, but enough to make you wonder what was next or if it would keep shaking and build in intensity.
Thursday was fine.  Supermarkets were opening and petrol was available. Milo had a scheduled flight to the US and with Kate and the boys secure decided to keep it. Mandy had had enough, and found a $50 flight to Sydney to meet up with her mom.  Air New Zealand canceled may of its flights to concentrate resources on getting people out of Christchurch.  The offered $50 fares to any domestic location + Sydney.  Amazing to have a socially responsible airline!
 I stayed for a briefing for the Erskine Fellows at 3PM.  They checked us into the building, badged us, and escorted us to a conference room to meet with the vice chancellor. These people must have had sensitivity training on dealing with traumatized students and staff.  I mean, we were handled like babies!  Truth is, we needed that.  Few are aware of their own dislocation. Sometimes I feel like Billy Pilgrim. The VC put the best face on things; the dorms are open, all essential building are structurally sound, occupation by staff is expected next week. He asked for questions and a 4.2 rumble shook the building. No one moved.
The big unknown is the total effect on Christchurch.  While the University and Riccarton areas are functional, 1/4th of the city is without power and water.  The town center is sealed off.  If you watch the news you can see why.  One multistory hotel is listing and will come down.  The CTV building and the Cathedral are now sacred sites as bodies are pulled from the rubble.  The city realizes the missing are dead.  It is sobering.

Roberto met with the Civil Engineers Thursday night and informed me that they do not know the extent of the damage in the city centre.  They have concentrated on rescue, and will start evaluating structures building by building Friday.  He is very pessimistic about the chances for the centre.  Gordon called me Thursday night to tell me to leave town.  I jump with every rumble.  I’m not getting up for fours anymore, but there is anxiety when a Huey thumps overhead.   So, I am writing this on the bus headed south.  I met a man at the bus stop with a fractured arm on his way to the hospital in Timaru.  He was downtown and part of the memorial bridge crushed his left arm.  After that he pulled two boys from the rubble.  They had skipped school and paid the ultimate price.

So many heroes, so much resilience, so much devastation.  I’m going to the mountains to find myself again.

after the quake

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Aftershocks

There are now three days in my life that I will never forget;  JFK’s assassination, 9-11, and the Christchurch earthquake.  When we arrived in New Zealand, people were still talking about the September 2010 quake, a kind of collective PTSD that was heard in cafes, airports and city streets - a comparison of notes of where they were when the “big one” hit.  That 7+ magnitude quake left a lasting impression on the collective conscientiousness.  The quake lasted 40 seconds, caused tremendous damage, but no one lost their life.  Christchurch this month had the look of a war zone, with barricades along city streets cordoning off unsafe buildings.  We were impressed with the resilience of the people and the town.  Life proceeded with minimal difficulty.  Buildings were damaged and work to repair the damage was underway. The town was pretty much back to normal.
I went into the office in the morning and Mandy went to the mall. We had a group presentation at 11AM after which Milo and I went to lunch.  I left Milo, stopped by the bank and took the elevator to the 5th floor of the engineering building .  I stepped off the elevator and into the reception area. Then the shake started.  We had been through a 4.5 quake last week and a few threes, so initially I thought it was a minor shake.  I turned to see a professor talking to a student outside his office and as the shaking intensified, he took the student by the head and pulled him into the doorway.  The next instant a light fixture crashed to the floor where the student had been standing.  The shaking intensified and I hugged a column to maintain balance and the shaking intensified again. I remember reassuring myself that these buildings housed Canterbury Civil Engineering and these people are the worlds experts.  Well, fatalism took over and resigned me to my fate of being trapped in the rubble of my Erskine Fellowship.  The shaking stopped. I looked in the secretary’s office and saw incredible devastation – filing cabinets - all books everywhere. Thankfully, Rebecca was still at lunch.  I ran down the hall toward my office looking in the other offices as I went, no one was hurt. Stepping over furniture in the office I grabbed my computer and back to the hallway.  A professor from downstairs came up the end of the building ordering everyone out of the building. We ran down the stairs and out to the street.  The Civil Engineering water tower was spewing water.  I saw Milo outside and invited him to our apartment across the street.  Milo brought Morris from the department, Roberto  showed up with a friend from Iowa State, and Gordon walked over form the computer science department. Roberto and Gordon are fellows staying in the same compound at the Academy Lodge.  Roberto is an earthquake specialist from GaTech.  The phoning started.  Mandy reported she was ok, exiting the Mall with no injuries.  We milled around and chatted – all a little shell shocked from the event. Mind you, we had no news of the severity of the situation, we just knew there had been a sixer at least.  Power was off.  I shot off a post before my battery died.  Milo could not locate Victor and George (his kids) so he jumped in the beater Mitsubishi to try to get to his side of town.   He reported “all safe” an hour later.
Mandy showed up in 30 minutes and we called Lucas to let him know we were o.k. As I was talking to him the 5.7 aftershock started. “F***,  goodbye!” were my words as I dropped the phone and dived out the door.  That one was bad.  We lost breeko blocks in the main room.  Happily, Gordon’s wife staggered in, visibly shaken from her 2nd floor mall experience.  Glass everywhere, all merchandise in the floor. Roberto lectured us on the dangers of such a shallow quake since surface waves don’t lose energy in the bedrock.  Liquifaction – a serious problem from the 2010 quake is a main concern.  And, of course, the Richter scale cannot capture the severity.  We had huge accelerations and the energy was far worse than the 7.2 in September. Try the blog http://eqclearinghouse.org/20100903-christchurch/ for details.  Roberto headed to town with a radio and a camera.
I called Lino and he was able to read the web over the phone to give some news of the quake.  When I heard Lyttelton was near the epicenter, my heart sank.  We were in that wonder old port Sunday.  Haven’t posted that blog yet, I will do it when Christchurch can spare the bandwidth.  The timeball station is destroyed – so sad.
With our Erskine troupe in hand we walked around the block looking for food or any open store.  It was impossible to judge the severity without information. When we got back to the Academy Lodge, the Barbie was set up in the parking lot, and all available reserves we “on the table.”  Brats, gin and tonic, shrimp, wine and salad.  We stood in the rain and chatted, ate, and the viewed the devastation when the electricity came back on about 6PM.  It is raining. It is cold. One visitor was at the CTV building and stepped out for a smoke. The cigarette saved his life.  Rescue workers were signing us up for empty beds, we expect several visitors tonight.  These people know how to respond.
We have no idea what the future will bring.
We have to stay off the internet to conserve bandwidth for emergency workers and families.  State of emergency for 5 days,  at least.  Water will be a problem.
Roberto, the Captain, and Gordon - wonder when we can start teaching again.

This is from our Sunday trip to Lyttelton - Time Ball now destroyed.
Lyttelton

First day of class!
ashburton river
Hard to get into this - just yesterday when the earth stood still. No more.
Tremors continue.

Monday, February 21, 2011

OMG OMG

6.3 and shallow. Mandy reports she is ok.  I was on the 5th floor.  Damage huge. Shallow quakes are worse.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Leaving Wairoa

So it's goodbye to James and Waiora after a dinner of fresh mussels and a trip to Lake Waikaremoana. We had tea at Grahme's bach. Seems a shame to give this up and go to work!

waiora

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Morere Hot Springs

A bit 'o rain and a cool day sent us to the hot springs at Morere.  Nice forest of native palms and some good nature walks.

Morere