Recharge

Destination, Timaru, a major port city 100 miles down the coast from Christchurch. We were shopping for an old beater to drive for our stay and found a candidate on “Trade Me.” A European couple needed to off their ’94 Nissan before continuing world travels in the US. Mandy had been chatting them up on the phone and the plan was to meet in Christchurch Tuesday evening (22Feb11) to look at the car. That did not happen. Jess called us a few days later to say they were not coming to Christchurch, period. If I wanted to look at the car I would have to come to Timaru. Why not, bus service in the city had stopped and transportation is needed in the mountains. Chris and Jess picked me up at the bus station, we had dinner, negotiated the deal, and they dropped me off at a backpacker’s hotel then returned to their tent. The hotel was rough. Timaru is now Christchurch’s port (Lyttelton being mostly destroyed and the tunnel closed). The truck traffic was significant through the night.
It was raining the next morning when we went to the post office to transfer registration of the car. I was not willing to postpone the deal – I had to go to the mountains. “So,” I asked, “what are your plans?” They were staying in the tent till the 1AM airport bus on Monday. “Well, the weather looks fine for a few day, wanna go to the mountains? I need a driver.” The skeptical Europeans looked at the hippy professor from Tennessee, at each other, at the weather, and said “sure!” With Chris at the wheel we blasted northwest to Lake Tekapo. I am grateful to my traveling companions. As you all know the “hofs” are a wild ride – it takes special people to keep up. I needed someone to talk too, to bounce off the trauma of the past week.

This is Jess and Chris at the marrin’ tree, Lake Alexandrina. Hope it’s not bad luck. They also have a blog. We found this spot by chatting up the locals (naturally). The mission was fishing, the lake a prime spot. We were there Sunday, a little late to be first to fish. Met a nice kid from Christchurch who advised that you need to fish from a willow tree!
We drove up Mt. John where the University has an observatory. The Tekapo region is an alpine desert and east of the southern alps so it affords the best views of the night sky. We met an Austrian couple up there that had just checked into the Backpackers last Tuesday, but couldn't take their room before 2PM. They were outside with their belongings when the quake started. Part of the ceiling collapsed and a woman trapped. Within minutes recovery people were there to dig her out – hurt but alive. When I talked to the Austrian, there was a tremor in her voice – only a magnitude 2. If you aren’t listening for the fear, you miss it. This is the most pernicious effect – the insistence of being o.k. when you are certainly not.
The weather was fine. We enjoyed fabulous views of Mt. Cook from the salmon farm below Tekapo.

I took the sunset stargazing tour at the observatory Sunday night. After that I couldn’t sleep. I am not able to reflect on the situation; it is a strange not to be able to sort through your feelings. I want to find peace in the mountains, to loose myself in stalking the trout and salmon. Monday sunrise was spectacular. With a “long black” in hand I went to a tree an Lake Alexandrina and sat with my fly rod. I was happy the rainbows that cruised the shore under me were not interested in my fly. I quit fishing. The mountains are a comfort but no escape. I need to return to Canterbury.

Sunrise over Lake Tekapo Monday morning.

Monday afternoon we drove back to town. Things seem normal coming in from the southwest. Roberto was home and gave us an update. One third of the buildings downtown are “red tagged.” The University is in good shape (I learned Rutherford Hall was red tagged from a security guard). For Christchurch to survive it will need to move – that is one of the discussions. Despite the calm words of the UC administration, we fear for the future of the University. International (paying) students have left. UC’s base in formula funded. As we chatted a 3.9 rumbled through. Roberto jumped and started for the door. He is another in denial of the trauma. This morning Chris, Jess and I awoke to a 3.6, left for the airport with a 3.7, and as I write got rumbled with a 4.3.

I am much better. I truly appreciate the outpouring of love from friends. I assure you I am changed and will be fine. The incredible beauty of this land does bring peace. Today at 12:51 there will be two minutes of silence (5:51PM CT). I am leaving now to go to the UC field.

It is hard to write these words. Please do not let me bring you down. The underlying message is hope, is resilience and the common bond of shared experience. My spirit is recharged from the mountains and I have the strength to support my fellow Cantabrians.